Only A Surfer Knows The Feelin
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There is a guy from Hawaii that I know. Every day, he wakes up, straps his surfboards to the racks on top of his car, drives his car from a town called Ewa, across the island of Oahu, to a little beach known as Ala Moana Beach Park. He does all of this even before the sun comes up. He spends a few minutes just looking at the ocean, watching and surveying the waves and how they break. As soon as the sun makes its first peek over the horizon, he grabs a board, waxes it up, and jumps in the water. He then paddles his board through what many people call a journey: two hundred yards of dark cold water, blistering currents, and waves pushing back against each stroke made to push forward. He ...
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runaways. He deals with teen depression, suicidal tendencies, and coordinates bringing these kids back together with their families. And even though these tasks aren’t what most people would want to have to put up with in their lives, he does it every day. Furthermore, as stressful as his job seems to be, this man is one of the mellowest guys that I know. When asked why he does this morning ritual every day, he said, “surfing helps keep me focused”. And I believe him.
Think about it for a moment, each time a surfer goes to a beach, waxes up his board, and surveys the waves from the shore, he is preparing to go into the water to do something quite amazing. This person is willing to test not only his limits, but also the limits of what the ocean can do to him. He wants to battle the power of the entity that covers over seventy percent of the earth, manifested in the form of a wave, and ride it for all its worth. He’s willing to do it armed only with a surfboard and the clothes ...
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It’s all about being clever: Using smarts instead of strength. A single twenty-five foot wave at Waimea bay on Oahu’s north shore can provide enough power to generate electricity for the entire island for three days. Not even the strongest man in the world can do that. So you have to be smart. It’s just like real life; learn to work around problems, instead if smashing right into them face-first.
Most surfers also have to have respect and humility. They have no choice but to be humbled by the ocean and its power. At any given time the ocean can claim a life, with no regard to how good a surfer or swimmer a person is. They respect it by taking care of the environment. Because it’s ...
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Only A Surfer Knows The Feelin. (2005, January 5). Retrieved April 19, 2024, from http://www.essayworld.com/essays/Only-A-Surfer-Knows-The-Feelin/20115
"Only A Surfer Knows The Feelin." Essayworld.com. Essayworld.com, 5 Jan. 2005. Web. 19 Apr. 2024. <http://www.essayworld.com/essays/Only-A-Surfer-Knows-The-Feelin/20115>
"Only A Surfer Knows The Feelin." Essayworld.com. January 5, 2005. Accessed April 19, 2024. http://www.essayworld.com/essays/Only-A-Surfer-Knows-The-Feelin/20115.
"Only A Surfer Knows The Feelin." Essayworld.com. January 5, 2005. Accessed April 19, 2024. http://www.essayworld.com/essays/Only-A-Surfer-Knows-The-Feelin/20115.
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